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"The name is a tad misleading. Coast is not on the coast but it is waterfront, one of dozens of eateries dotted around Darling Harbour and one of the best, too. The Italian-inspired food is of a very high order. Jonathan Barthelmess has organised the menu along Italian lines - antipasto, primi, zuppa, pasta, secondi, contorni, dolci. Start with a plate of cured meats by Pino Tomini Foresti, move on to quail's breast with a fig and farro salad, then to pea agnolotti with goat's curd. Market-fresh fish is roasted whole and served with nettle butter, and barramundi with cavolo nero, pine nuts and raisins is equally delicious. To drink? Take your choice from a dizzying array of 400-plus wines. The main dining room, white and with op-art fabrics, is as urbane and handsome as they come but the terrace is the place to be if the weather is benign." |